My Wine Reviews
These are very much my personal opinions. Wine is so much your personal taste and enjoyment. However, they do represent my favorites from last year’s visit in Burgundy, and represent insight from an expert in the region and meeting my crtiteria of affordability, up-and-coming and not just the “big names” in the industry.
Most are affordable and even the Grand Cru Class choices are considerably less expensive than you would expect to pay for a premium California Cabernet Sauvigon, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.
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““Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.”
― Ernest Hemingway
Château De La Crée can be found in the village of Santenay. My American friends, who appreciate the Pinot Noir varietal, maybe aware that ownership of this vineyard is common with Domaine Serene in Oregon - a personal favorite. The En Goty demonstrated intense black cherry, with cinnamon and earthiness. Great concentration of flavor and bouquet. Should develop well in next 5-8 years. The overall favorite of the entire first visit to Burgundy was their 2015 Santenay Chardonnay it was bright and citrusy with a distinction of oak and vanilla. I have bought more while it is still available.
One down, one to go. I visited Maison Champy's 15th century cellars in Beaune and explored a fascinating exhibition of the firm’s 300 year-old history. Maison Champy is the oldest wine merchant in the Burgundy region. Founder, Edme Champy's successor became friends with none other than Louis Pasteur, who, in collaboration with Maison Champy, carried out research work on wine. The company’s list of Burgundy wines is impressive: from Chablis to Mâcon, from regional appellations to Great Growths, as well as all the village appellations and First Growths. I bought two bottles of my favorite from the tasting -it was a 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (second most respected level of production). It was a deep ruby color with strong hint of red currents - definately young and currently recommended for drinking after 2024. Can't wait!
I did not visit this vineyard during my vacation to Burgundy in 2020, it was a recommendation from my wine expert, and native Burgundian - Nathalie Auvolat of Secret Wine Tours. The Domain was established by the monks over a millennium ago, in a dip between Meursault, Auxey and Monthelie. The original ownership goes back to the Abbey of Cluny in 962. The domaine takes its name from the vines enclosed by a tall, stout wall – the vines of Auxey-Duresses Moulin aux Moines – both red and white. Just over the wall, behind the Domain and a small vineyard road is the village of Meursault. Nathalie provided me with her three recommended wines: 2015 Auxey-Duresses Clos Moulin aux Moines It had a terrific bouquet, and the intensity of the wine was progressive - excellent with a leg of lamb I prepared. 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes A lightly oaked chardonnay. I could taste apple and pear, with a flower bouquet. Very light acidity - excellent with a plate of crusty bread and cheese. 2015 Volnay Les Famines Forward red fruit. Lite on the palate - my strong favorite - was excellent with light meat pasta dishes
My visit to Pierre Mayeul was undertaken in central Beaune, a secret location of this negociant (wine merchant). Our host was Matthieu Bouchard a 9th generation decedent of the Bouchard Père & Fils, Founded in 1731 in Beaune, and one of the oldest and most respected wine families in Burgundy. We tasted all three (and a couple more) and they were all superb. The Nuits-Saint-Georges was my personal favorite -intense, with a deep purple color and flavors of predominatly blackcurrant with some truffle. It was very much full-bodied, but balanced. The Santenay Chardonnay had a distinct minerality and floral bouquet as did the Corton Chalemagne. Both the white wines would be perfect with fish or cheese. The bottle of Corton Charlemagne is still to be enjoyed. It is a Grand Cru (great growth) - the most respected designation afforded in France. I will update in a few years!!
On the second day of my 2020 Fall visit we went to Domaine Marguerite Carillon. A winery camouflaged in what looks like a private residence. It is located on the heights of the village of Meursault, and was founded in 1954 It boasts two Grands Crus of exceptional finesse: Corton-Charlemagne and Corton “Les Maréchaudes.” The Domaine contains a magnificent vaulted cellar including a wine cellar containing old vintages going back almost 100 years. 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru This was my favorite during the tasting but being laid down to further mature. It was green gold in color. First aroma was of walnut, then honey like on the palate, with hint of apple, and even for being so young - some exotic fruit. This was a wonderful wine with great potential.
There is a great story behind this wine. My guide and I were having lunch.in Mersault. We complimented our meal with a glass of their suggested red wine for that day. It was so good, we had a second glass, and then changed our itinerary and sure enough after hearing our story they invited us to visit them at Domaine Dubuet-Monthélie. This is a small family-owned Domaine that has been around for two centuries, currently in its 6th generation and our host was David Dubuet. They produce pinot noir and chardonnay bottled in single cuvées from lieux-dits and premier crus. This is what is best about the wine industry - David acts as winemaker, bottler, and sommelier. In fact he was kind enough to label and cap three of his own collection for us so we could match the vintage from the restaurant - the last bottle, is signed by David - he was a great host and this wine was spectacular. 2017 Domaine Dubuet-Monthélie - "Les Longines" Cedar and red fruit. It had a lingering flavor of chocolate and cherry with velvety tannins for such a relatively young wine. There was the very slighhtest spice in the finish - I will savor this with some local chicken or duck. Absolutely worth making the visit for the small vineyard experience but not missing out on any of the quality of the prestigious "Houses of Burgundy"